Adrian Appiolaza’s inaugural showcase as the head of design for Moschino was a captivating homage to the label’s 1980s glory, woven with a modern twist. Thursday evening in Milan witnessed a vibrant resurrection of Moschino’s archival treasures, including trompe l’oeil suspenders, lavish ruffles, and a myriad of polka dots, all through Appiolaza’s contemporary lens.
“Incorporating the essence of Franco Moschino’s iconic creations into today’s narrative was pivotal,” Appiolaza shared during a preview. “It’s about reinvigorating those masterpieces with the brand’s signature theatrical flair, making them resonate with today’s audience”.
Taking the helm after a decade at Loewe, and with prior stints at Alexander McQueen and Chloé, Appiolaza faced the challenge of curating this collection in a short span, following the sudden passing of his predecessor, Davide Renne. This situation led him to delve deeply into Franco Moschino’s original works. “Given the timeframe, it felt right to turn to Franco’s designs,” he explained. “The constraint on time actually fostered decisiveness and prevented overcomplication, resulting in a collection that feels genuine and unforced.”
The collection seamlessly integrated motifs such as printed silk tunics mimicking ties, headwear, and the iconic curly question mark, alongside newer elements like cowboy-inspired denim and hats. Furthermore, Moschino’s never-before-seen LOVE and peace symbols were prominently featured, aligning with Appiolaza’s vision of embedding peace and unity into the brand’s message.
Under Appiolaza’s guidance, Moschino maintains its tradition of blending fashion with social commentary, a legacy left by Franco Moschino, who was known for his critical perspective on the fashion industry’s excesses and his advocacy for peace.
Appiolaza, with his extensive background in fashion design, brings a fresh yet respectful approach to Moschino’s legacy, emphasizing the importance of fun and individual expression in fashion. “Fashion should be about enjoyment and self-expression, not conformity,” he stated, echoing Franco Moschino’s philosophy.
Despite the inevitable comparisons to Jeremy Scott’s iconic tenure, Appiolaza’s unique vision and approach set a new direction for Moschino, promising a future where creativity and playfulness continue to define the brand’s identity. With this debut, Appiolaza steps confidently into his role, ready to honor Moschino’s heritage while steering its creative journey forward.
