Olga Samokhvalova’s name is well known within the professional community of hair colorists. The founder of the LUMEN salon, she began her career in Mariupol and, after being forced to relocate during the war, successfully rebuilt her business in Kyiv. Today, LUMEN is more than a beauty salon. It is a carefully designed space where aesthetics meet attentive service and professional expertise. In conversation, Olga reflects on her first professional breakthrough, discusses the ethical principles of working with color, and explains how challenging circumstances ultimately became a catalyst for growth in her business.
Do you remember the moment when you first truly felt like a professional master?
I remember that moment very clearly. It happened in Mariupol at the beginning of my career. A client came to see me who had avoided hair coloring for a long time, even though she wanted a change. She was worried the result would be too dramatic.
I suggested a complex yet delicate coloring technique with natural transitions that would highlight her features. When she saw the result in the mirror, her reaction was completely sincere—she started crying with happiness. She said, “I haven’t felt like this in a long time.”
That was the moment I understood that a colorist’s work is not only about technique. Color can change how a person feels—their mood, their confidence. Since then, I always begin with a conversation. It’s important to understand how a client wants to see herself.
Moving during wartime inevitably changes one’s professional focus. What skills did you have to learn again?
Relocating to Kyiv became a serious challenge for me. At first, I worked with a well-known stylist and gained new experience interacting with a different audience of clients.
When the salon closed because of the war, my colleague—a top master—and I made the decision to open our own space. For me, that meant a shift in role: I was no longer just a specialist. For the first time, I took responsibility for business processes.
That’s how LUMEN was created—a salon where atmosphere matters: a sense of calm, personalized service, and creative freedom for the masters. This format allowed us to adapt quickly to new circumstances and create a place where clients come not only for the result, but also for a feeling of comfort.
Complex coloring often requires balancing aesthetics with hair health. Could you share one example?
Recently, a client came to me with naturally dark hair that had been dyed at home for many years. Her goal was a cool blonde. But the starting point was complicated: uneven pigment, dry areas, and different levels of porosity.
We considered several strategies:
- intensive lightening in a single session
- gradual lightening with transitional shades
- gentle lightening with a focus on hair restoration
I carefully explained the advantages and risks of each option. A fast result could seriously damage the hair structure. A gradual process would take more time but would preserve the hair’s quality.
In the end, we chose step-by-step lightening combined with restorative components in the coloring process and supportive treatments between sessions. After the first session, the hair already looked significantly healthier, and the color appeared more even and softer.
How does a colorist develop a sense of color?
I believe it must be trained every day. It helps to observe colors in everyday life—in nature, in the textures of fabrics, in light. You can take a photograph or an object and try to break it down into shades: identify where the color is warmer, where it is cooler, where it has greater depth.
Over time, this develops precision when working with tone.
The most common mistake young colorists make is relying on ready-made formulas. Sometimes they ignore the condition of the hair, previous coloring, or the natural pigment.
I always remind them: hair is not a formula. It’s a material that requires careful analysis. When a master begins to see it individually, the results become consistent and predictable.